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Tips on How to Get Your Kitten to Love Brushing Their Teeth 🪥🐱

The importance of brushing your cat's teeth is probably well-known by everyone. My friends in the group think Momo looks like a fake cat when she gets her teeth brushed 😂😂. I’d like to share some tips to help more cats fall in love with toothbrushing 🐶🐶 Around the time your cat finishes teething, at about five months old, you should start brushing its teeth. The frequency of brushing depends on the actual circumstances; I typically brush Momo’s teeth every two days, but I recommend doing it at least 1-2 times a week. Desensitizing your cat to brushing is important because they generally don’t accept it easily in the beginning. 🪥 **The first desensitization stage** should start when your cat is around four months old and hasn't finished teething. At this point, try to gently open your cat's mouth several times a day. Once she gets used to this, you can start touching her teeth with your fingers (begin with the front teeth and canines, be careful not to get bitten). Once your cat gets accustomed to having her mouth opened and teeth touched, you can move on to the second stage. 🪥 **The second stage** involves getting your cat accustomed to actual brushing. Choose a sunny afternoon when your kitty is a bit sleepy, and get your tools ready—a toothbrush, cat treats, a small blanket, and wet wipes. First, wrap your cat in the blanket like a sushi roll (this step is crucial❗️). Then, put a little bit of cat treat on the toothbrush for your cat to smell. Most cats will start licking it. At this moment, employ your mouth-opening technique and attempt to brush her teeth. It’s normal for your cat to struggle and bite the toothbrush. The treat’s allure will reduce her resistance to the brush. The goal of this stage is to get your cat used to having something in her mouth. 🪥 **The third stage** is regular brushing. Keep your cat wrapped in the blanket, but replace the cat treat on the toothbrush with toothpaste, and brush her teeth normally. 🪥 **The fourth stage**, which many cats may never reach 😂😂, involves brushing without the blanket. Your kitty will have fully transformed into a ‘fake cat’. 🪥 The time it takes to transition through each stage varies, so be patient as your cat gets used to it. Of course, if your cat has issues with being held or touched, it may be best to postpone brushing for now 😂😂. After each desensitization training or brushing session, remember to give a little treat to help your cat associate brushing with a positive experience 🐶🐶. Check the third picture for a proper guide on how to wrap your cat like a sushi roll 😽😽

Dr. Elizabeth Claire
Picture of the article:Tips on How to Get Your Kitten to Love Brushing Their Teeth 🪥🐱

Who's still impulsively thinking about getting a rabbit?

**First Major Misconception: Raising a bunny is cheap, just throw it some veggie leaves. But actually, raising a rabbit is super expensive!** **First ☝️ Cage and Living Area** A rabbit's feet can't step on hard surfaces, especially cages with wide gaps. Their feet will hurt and could develop skin diseases over time. So, you either buy a professional rabbit cage (which can cost several hundred, better ones are three or four hundred and up), or buy a cat/dog cage and lay down a soft carpet. Avoid long-pile carpets, cleaning will drive you nuts. Using a large iron cage, like those cheap wire ones for birds or chickens, is practically abusing them. The enclosed area also needs to be large because rabbits grow quickly. If you have a meat rabbit, they can grow up to eight or nine pounds, so you need enough space to set up a large cozy area for them. **Second! Companionship.** Rabbits can't stay in a cage all the time. You need to let them out to play daily. If they are confined all the time, they'll get depressed. Don't think you can just keep a rabbit caged because they're not as smart and won't require any effort. Rabbits are actually very smart and have lots of emotions. So, if you're very busy and tired, with no time to care for or play with your bunny, really don't raise one. **Third! Veterinary Care.** Rabbits get sick too. Unlike cats and dogs, not all pet hospitals can treat rabbits. They are considered exotic pets and are relatively rare. Some small cities don't even have vets for rabbits. If there's no hospital or doctor nearby that can treat rabbits, don't raise one. Moreover, bunny medical care is expensive. My female rabbit's spaying cost me 700, and when she had a cold, I didn't dare to give her random meds, it cost 300-400 at the hospital. Let's not even talk about other minor illnesses. In summer, you need to run the air conditioner daily to prevent heatstroke, and the electricity bill can be several hundred a month. If you have no savings, spare cash, or are a student unable to afford bunny expenses, don't raise one. **Fourth, rabbits eat hay and rabbit food; they can’t drink tap water!** Rabbits don’t eat veggie leaves. Meat rabbits might survive on veggie leaves daily but will have shorter lifespans and get sick easily! This is like a child eating junk food and gutter oil takeout every day—they wouldn't die right away but would have a shortened lifespan! Some say rabbits don’t drink water, but think with your brain, can any carbon-based life form survive without water? Some rabbits seem to survive without water because the veggies you feed them contain moisture. They're surviving on that tiny bit of water—what is this but abuse? Ridiculous! #BeginnerBunnyCare #DailyRabbitCare #RabbitLife #ThinkTwiceBeforeRaisingRabbits #BeResponsibleForLives

Dr. Emily Becker
Picture of the article:Who's still impulsively thinking about getting a rabbit?

Summer is here! Good ways to help cats stay cool! 🐱☀️

**How Do Cats Cool Themselves? Can We Do Anything to Help?** What are some affordable and effective items to help cats stay cool? **I. How Cats Cool Themselves** Before diving in, it's useful to understand how cats regulate their body temperature. When the surrounding temperature rises, or if they're excited, stressed, or exercising, a cat's body sends signals to the brain that their body temperature is too high. The brain then takes measures to release the excess heat. Cats primarily cool themselves through sweating, grooming, and staying in cool places. **(1) Sweating** Sweating helps regulate body temperature. Unlike humans, whose bodies are covered in sweat glands, cats have very few sweat glands located in specific hairless areas like their paw pads, nose, lips, and around the anus. So, during a hot summer, you might notice your cat's paw pads are often damp, sometimes leaving a trail of wet footprints. If your cat has long fur between their toes, you might consider trimming it in the summer to help with cooling. Shaving their whole body is unnecessary. Since cats lack sweat glands on most of their body, shaving them won't effectively cool them down and can even increase the risk of sunburn. **(2) Heat Transfer** Due to the limited effectiveness of sweating for cats, they primarily rely on heat transfer to regulate their body temperature (in simple terms: they stay where it's cool). In summer, cats love lying on cool floors because the floor can absorb some of their body heat and help them stay cool. **(3) Grooming** Yes, grooming also helps cats regulate their body temperature. A cat's tongue is covered with papillae, which we often refer to as "backward hooks." The tips of these papillae have tiny cavities that can hold saliva. Cats use this to spread saliva onto their fur. Because these papillae are long, when a cat grooms, it not only wets the surface fur but also reaches the deeper layers. As the saliva evaporates, it carries away excess body heat, thereby cooling the cat's skin. **II. How to Help Cats Stay Cool** Knowing how cats regulate their body temperature, we can take targeted measures to help them stay cool. **(1) Air Conditioning is the Best** As mentioned above, cats' sweat glands are not well-developed, so heat transfer is more effective for cooling. Therefore, using air conditioning to keep your home cool is the best way to help your cat stay cool. However, if no one is home, leaving it on all day might not be safe, and the electricity bill can be quite high... In this case, you can: ➤ Use sleep mode/energy-saving mode to save some electricity. ➤ Use smart sockets/AC companions. These are highly recommended as you can remotely control or schedule them while at the office, turning on the AC for an hour or two during the hottest part of the day. ➤ Use a remote-control camera. If you're worried about safety, you can monitor things while the AC is on. **Tips:** ● It's best to set the AC to around 26°C (78.8°F) to avoid a large temperature difference. ● Do not let your cat sit directly in the AC's airflow—use a shield in front of the AC unit. ● In regions with high humidity, use the dehumidifying function to make the environment comfortable. ● Make sure there are still rooms without air conditioning that your cat can access in case they want to move away from the cool air. **(2) If Air Conditioning Is Not an Option, Fans Can Help** Fans work by accelerating air flow to speed up the evaporation of sweat, which removes heat. This is less effective for cats, which have fewer sweat glands. Also, if the room is already hot, the fan will just blow around hot air. So, fans are not highly recommended. However, for those without AC or living in apartments where AC electricity costs are high, a fan can be an option. When using a fan, you can place a basin of ice water in front of it to make the air cooler, or use a fan with ice packs. **(3) Cooling Products Can Help** ➤ Store away the fluffy winter beds and switch to cooling mats or bamboo mats (make sure they're large enough for the cat to lie flat). ➤ Consider changing your bed/sofa to ice silk fabric or bamboo materials so that your cat will want to sleep with you during summer. ➤ Use aluminum pots, aluminum basins, or stainless steel bowls for cat beds, as these materials conduct heat well. ➤ Pet camping cots are also great, as their bottom is elevated and breathable, keeping it cool. **III. Additional Precautions** **(1) Ensure Good Ventilation** If there's no air conditioning, always remember to open windows for ventilation (make sure the screens are secure) to ensure fresh air flow indoors. Do not leave your cat in a tightly closed room or confined on a balcony/sunroom. Some cats might voluntarily stay on the balcony during the hottest part of the day. It's best to move them indoors, especially from around 11 AM to 3 PM when the sun is strongest to prevent sunburn. **(2) Avoid Direct Sunlight** Remember to draw some curtains before leaving home, preferably those with good shading effects. You can also install heat-insulating films on the windows to block heat and UV rays. If living on the top floor, consider laying a heat-insulating membrane on the roof. Also, make sure your cat has access to areas with limited sunlight and surfaces like tiles or marble. **(3) Adjust Playtime with Your Cat** If you prefer to play vigorously with your cat at noon, you'll need to adjust the timing to cooler hours, like early mornings or evenings. If your cat is overly playful and doesn't seem to stop even when they are excessively panting, you'll need to intervene. **(4) Take Precautions When Taking Your Cat Outside** ➤ Avoid going out if you don't have to. If it's necessary, like for a vet visit or vaccination, go early in the morning or late evening to avoid the midday heat. ➤ Never leave your pet in the car during summer as the temperature can reach 40-50°C (104-122°F). ➤ Avoid using non-breathable carriers. Instead, use a carrier with a cooling pack. ➤ If you need to ship your cat, avoid midday flights in summer, and travel with your cat to handle any emergencies promptly. If your cat shows signs of overheating like lethargy, unwillingness to move, rapid breathing, or even starts vomiting, they might be having a heat stroke! Immediately move your cat to a shady spot, use air conditioning, fans, or ice packs to cool them down, and take them to the vet immediately!

Dr. Elizabeth Claire
Picture of the article:Summer is here! Good ways to help cats stay cool! 🐱☀️

Beetle Larvae Care Guide

# How to Raise Beetle Larvae? Raising beetle larvae is actually quite simple for most species: a disposable container, a jar, or a small storage box can all serve as a home for larvae. However, while keeping them alive is easy, growing them large requires some techniques. Let's start with what I believe is the most crucial aspect: ## Using Fermented Wood Chips There are many brands of commercially available fermented wood chips, each with its unique level of fermentation and particle size. There are also dry and wet wood chips. Dry wood chips are more popular because they are cost-effective and easier to store. However, many people struggle with adding water and waiting properly, often resulting in mold growth, mushroom sprouting, larvae refusing to eat, contamination with other insects, or secondary fermentation. Many of these issues can be avoided by correctly adding water and letting the wood chips sit. 1. **Water Ratio** Many sellers describe the proper moisture level of wood chips as "squeeze them with your hand; they shouldn't drip water, should clump when released, and should easily scatter with a light shake." This requires precise control of moisture. Although you can adjust the moisture level by adding water when too dry and more wood chips when too wet, a general rule based on most commercial brands is that fine particle wood chips and water should be mixed in a 4:1 ratio, while coarse particle wood chips should be mixed in a 5:2 ratio. After mixing, cover and let them sit. 2. **Turning and Letting the Wood Chips Sit** After evenly mixing in water, the surface of the wood chips will be moist, but the inside might not be fully hydrated. Check and stir the wood chips the next day to ensure they are evenly moist, there is no pooled water at the bottom, and they have a uniform color and no strange smell. If these conditions are met, repeat the process for several days until the wood chips stabilize, usually around seven days, then they can be used normally. ## Temperature Control After the proper use of fermented wood chips, the next critical factor is temperature control. Using the right wood chips and maintaining the correct temperature will ensure that the beetles you raise are not small. Most larvae grow well at temperatures between 22-24°C, with rhinoceros beetles and flower chafers preferring slightly higher temperatures, while stag beetles prefer slightly lower. Common methods for temperature control include air conditioning (for large-scale breeders), temperature-controlled cabinets (for about dozens), and various DIY insulated boxes. The first two methods can be costly and may not be economical for those raising fewer beetles. The third DIY option is more cost-effective and allows for customization based on your breeding needs and future plans. Here are some materials I prefer based on experience: 1⃣️ **Extruded Polystyrene Foam Boards** Used for building insulated boxes. They have a higher density than foam boxes, better insulation properties, and flame retardancy, making them safer for both cooling and heating. 2⃣️ **Cooling Equipment** Options include small compressors, semiconductor coolers, and traditional ice packs. 2.1 Compressor cooling is effective but costly. 2.2 Semiconductor cooling is less efficient but can still cool a 1.8m*1.8m*1.6m temperature control box to the appropriate temperature. It’s a suitable option for smaller boxes. 2.3 Traditional ice packs are suitable for those with time on their hands, needing to replace the ice packs every 12-24 hours but costing almost nothing. 3⃣️ **Heating** One heating wire can do the job, making it both convenient and safe. If your goal is to raise medium to large beetles, you can widen the temperature range accordingly. Most rhinoceros beetles and flower chafers develop normally between 18-28°C, while stag beetles prefer temperatures below 24°C. ## Daily Maintenance With good temperature control and stable food sources, achieving large beetles is just a matter of time. However, there are some daily maintenances and common issues to consider. **TIPS⚠️** 1⃣️ Fill the container with substrate according to the species: compress tightly for stag beetles, leaving 1-2cm loose on top, and lightly compress for flower chafers and rhinoceros beetles. 2⃣️ Cover ventilation holes with breathable tape to prevent small flies (wood gnats) from accelerating wood chip decomposition. 3⃣️ If using storage boxes, place nonwoven fabric or newspaper between the box and lid to prevent small flies from entering. 4⃣️ **What if the wood chips grow mold or mushrooms?** As fermented products, wood chips contain active microorganisms and fungi. Unless the mold is severe or you see a large amount of green mold, you usually don't need to take action unless larvae refuse to eat. 5⃣️ **White mites in wood chips.** Mites are unavoidable. Unless they heavily infest larvae, there’s no need to manage them.

James F.Garcia
Picture of the article:Beetle Larvae Care Guide
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